Glue question

[TexasSteve]

I am going to try and carve a large Santa, about 16" tall and the bottom of the robe will be about 8" around. The problem I have is I only have 4x8x16 inch blocks of basswood. I have a bunch, so I was hoping not to have to buy a larger piece. Can I glue up two of my large blocks then carve it from that? What problems, if any, will that cause?

Thanks for the advise

Steve

[Robson Valley]

I'd plan the glue line to run around the sides of the block, not up and down the front and back.
Next, plan the glue-up with substantial pressure to keep the glue line as thin as you can, within reason. Right now, I'm doing a dish in red cedar. I didn't have a piece large enough so I glued two slabs together, edge-to-edge (2+" thick). The glue line runs right down the middle of the dish from front to back. . . . . not very noticeable at all.

[telecarver]

Unless the blocks are perfectly flat, you will need to use a jointer to flatten the surfaces to be glued. If the finish is to be transparent, the seam should not intersect the face. Look at the ends and match the grain so that it is going in the same direction. I use a minimum of 6 of clamps completely surrounding the block. 8 would be better. One at each corner and at least one in the middle in between on each side. Dry clamp your block beforehand to make sure all of the seams come together cleanly. If there is a gap, the glue may fill it but it will look bad. If you can fit a piece of thin piece of tracing paper in between the surfaces the gap is too wide and you will need to re-fit the joint. Use Tightbond II glue for basswood to match the color. Don't use too much glue. Mark the two blocks with index lines so when you clamp you can line up the blocks easier. The glue will act as a lubricant and the blocks will tend to slide around. I use a couple of quick-grip clamps on the edges to keep the pieces from sliding apart. Apply pressure with the clamps a little bit at a time working first from corner to corner and then around the block. Make sure a little bit of glue squeezes out all of the way around. If there is a spot where it doesn't, put another clamp there or tighten the one that might already be there. I have a video tutorial almost finished that shows how to glue up a carving block. Subscribe to my channel to get notified when I release it.

[cut up]

Steve,
In short the answer is yes you can.
In addition to Ron's video, Lynn O. Doughty's glue up can be seen on his blog page. His comment was he might have to touch it up with paint, which he did. The one I watched was on his carving called Muy Caliente. He did a glue up on the face.
Happy carving,
Michael

[Big Barn]

Just make sure the glue you are using is sandable-paintable (I think those are words?). Also, if you're going to use standard yellow glue, you can use pressure but not too much because it actually squeezes too much glue out from the pieces & wipe off any extra with a damp/wet paper towel. I normally use the yellow Tite Bond II. As previously stated, you just need to be sure the glue sides are as flat as possible to avoid voids.

[TexasSteve]

Thanks for the comments everyone. My main hobby/side jobs are with woodworking so I am very familiar with the techniques but I was not sure of how it would carve. No glue line down the face is a great tip, I will make sure the glue line runs done the sides of the carving. more than likely I will paint or at least wash the carving in light colors. Glad to know it will work, should save me some time and some money. I do have a joiner and planer so I will make sure it is as flat as can be before the glue up. And according to my wife, I have more than enough clamps in the shop..if that is even possible

[BobBlaney]

Texas Steve,
We cabinetmakers can NEVER have enough clamps. I have run out gluing up large pieces of furniture like the china cabinet I built. I have to use an Ace bandage for one clamp, it worked though.

[telecarver]

Originally Posted by Big Barn

Just make sure the glue you are using is sandable-paintable (I think those are words?). Also, if you're going to use standard yellow glue, you can use pressure but not too much because it actually squeezes too much glue out from the pieces & wipe off any extra with a damp/wet paper towel. I normally use the yellow Tite Bond II. As previously stated, you just need to be sure the glue sides are as flat as possible to avoid voids.

You only need a microscopic amount of glue between the boards to have a good bond. The bond occurs when the glue penetrates the wood fibers. I recommend a lot of pressure to squeeze out the excess glue. Otherwise you will end up with an unsightly glue line. I have been using a lot of pressure for 40 years and have never had a failure using yellow glue. Also, if you use a wet towel it dilutes the glue at the seam and causes the glue to recede leaving a gap at the surface. Wipe the excess glue off with a dry towel or rag and carve or sand off what's left.

[Big Barn]

Originally Posted by telecarver

You only need a microscopic amount of glue between the boards to have a good bond. The bond occurs when the glue penetrates the wood fibers. I recommend a lot of pressure to squeeze out the excess glue. Otherwise you will end up with an unsightly glue line. I have been using a lot of pressure for 40 years and have never had a failure using yellow glue. Also, if you use a wet towel it dilutes the glue at the seam and causes the glue to recede leaving a gap at the surface. Wipe the excess glue off with a dry towel or rag and carve or sand off what's left.

OK, so it appears there are different opinions (like that never happens). Like telecarver, I have been working with wood for 40+yrs too & have not seen the issues stated but I can see where they absolutely can happen. The OP stated he has worked with wood before & I would assume he has his own method. We all agree: use pressure, wipe off excess, joining surfaces must be flat as possible & clean up the edge(s) as needed. Oh yah - the glue point is carvable.

[TexasSteve]

I agree on most of "use pressure, wipe off excess, joining surfaces must be flat as possible & clean up the edge(s) as needed. "
I actually do not wipe any of the glue off until it forms a gummy consistency, then I have an old chisel that I use to scrape the glue from the joint. Many methods, all the same result, just what I am used to.