Flat Chisel Help for Carving

[kai_gold]

Hello everyone. I am new to carving. I have found several threads on this forum that have been helpful with answering questions about gouges, but I have not been able to find some specifics on flat chisels for carving for deeper reliefs as well as some norwegian style acanthus. By deep relief, I mean carving half way into a 2-3" thick panel of wood with multiple levels.

I have read that flat chisels can work well for rounding the outside curves of objects and leaves without leaving the gouge marks.

Question 1) For this specific function, do you prefer a normal bench chisel or one similar to the pfeil #1?

Question 2) If you prefer a pfeil #1, do you prefer the single bevel or the double bevel?

The single bevel versus double bevel is of particular interest.

Thanks,
James

[Robson Valley]

James: I have a Pfeil 1/8 (double bevel) which isn't much use other than setting in patterns and stop cuts. The edge is always trying to skid away from (perhaps) the direction that I intend to go.
Single bevel chisels give you the choice of which side to run on the wood. For the actual "carving", I have a variety of skew chisels, from the Pfeil 1S/25e to smaller sizes. Chip knives from Flexcut and Moor plus the Pfeil Brienz. For long shaping cuts, I have the R&L pair of Mora Hook knifes, commonly used in the Farrier trade (very hard steel, tedious to get carving sharp.)
For deep relief, hog out as much as you dare with Forstner bits +drill press or plunge router. Then go to spoon bent gouges as the upswept edges cut the L&R sides of the wood chip.

I have used a 1" Marples carpenter's chisel to flatten the bottom of a shallow (1.5"?) dish in Western Red Cedar but the fact that the corners don't cut leaves some ragged edges.

[kai_gold]

Thanks Robson for your thoughts on the bevels. I will probably pick up a skew and see how that works. I will also check out those mora hook knives. They sound interesting.

James

[Donsexton]

For multiple layers in deep relief I was taught to use short bent fishtail and back bent fishtail. For detailing inside corners right and left bent skews. It doesn’t matter which brand if you buy any short bent fishtail it will be from one of the top makers. You know a dog leg chisel is handy for relief as well and I always tell Yall that a bent macaroni tool is perfectly designed for relief carving.

[kai_gold]

Don,
Thanks for the tips. I will be making a trip to the local supply store soon and I will take a look at those macaroni tools.

[Robson Valley]

kai_gold: Don's tips are better than mine. While my first serious introduction to carving was a relief carving class, it convinced me that I wanted to carve "in the round." Still, I suppose, that's no more than deep relief carving in 3D.

[davidinsarasota]

Kai,

If by 'regular bench chisel' you mean a carpenter's firmer chisel, they can be used to remove wood, but the geometry (attack angle) and weight are all wrong for precise carving.

I agree with RV about single bevel having dual use; bevel up for shaving, bevel down for hogging (could be vise/versa, I can 'feel' it when I'm doin' it.)

I second Don's fishtail recommendation. They are better for corners, yes, but also for seeing and feeling the stroke.

Finally, consider a #3 fishtail instead of a #1.

The slight curve eliminates tool corners digging in. It does leave a slight concave, but multiple passes will pretty much flatten the peaks, and a little texture in the flat areas can add interest and hand-carved 'humanity' to a piece. It can be reversed for most convex features like grapes or noses.

[kai_gold]

David,
I will have to give a 3 sweep fishtail a try. Thanks for your bevel suggestions.

Robson,
Those mora hook knives are interesting.

--James

[Robson Valley]

The Mora hook knives are similar to the bent/hooked knives which are used by many, if not most, wood carvers in the Pacific Northwest Coastal Native Indian groups. While they may be OK for trimming horse hooves, they don't come carving-sharp. Lots of waterstone slips and honing. Once sharpened, they really are nice for big curved surfaces (fish bodies, beaks, etc). I paid about $15 each in an old hardware store that sold horse tack stuff.