Finish Crape Myrtle?

cmiles · #1 06-28-2005, 03:57 PM

I have a carved walking stick (cane) made from Crape Myrtle that from neglect has dulled and has a dry, almost no finish on it. I would like to refinish it to a fairly good gloss or satan and still preserve its grain and carving details.
I have refinished gunstocks etc with Trueoil, would this be a good oil to use, and a finishing chemical. I dont mind investing some time in the project, like hand rubbing etc. Thanks if someone can help!

Kenny_S · #2 06-28-2005, 05:59 PM

Boiled Linseed Oil( BLO), TungueOIL( Formsby ), Most any Poly like Deft Satin or semi gloss. True oil is good for gun stocks but leaves a hard finish.

Irish · #3 06-28-2005, 06:24 PM

Cmiles, I have never carved crape myrtle so I can't suggest how to finish it. But I would like to ask how it carved? I have two in my yard and it is all that I can do to prune them because the wood is so extremely hard. Just curious.

Susan

cmiles · #4 06-28-2005, 07:45 PM

Im sure its not a 1 of a kind but is rather rare. I bought it many many years ago from a disabled Viet Nam vet who sold different carved and custom made objects.

The wood, as you said is extremely hard and strong, and as Im sure you know is very crooked. Something that makes this stick unique is that is creator could cut the cane to the length the user needed, have a natural curve (crook) for the handle, leave it as crooked as a snake but still maintain a perfect center of gravity (plumb) vertically - it is more stable support than any theraputic cane I have ever used. He even used the bends to set an offset making it for left or right handed use.

As far as its carving, he of course cut a relief iin the bottom for a rubber gripper cup (it isnt just for looks), and finger grips and some knewling on the 'handle'. Also he carved an Eagle Globe and Anchor into the wood just below the 'handle' (yeah Im another ole VM vet/hippie) and carved the purchaser's Unit numer down the sides. Of course he made them for the other branches of service.

Thanks for the suggestion so far, I feel alittle guilty about allowing it to deteriate over the years and would like to bring it back to its original glory.

AlArchie · #5 06-28-2005, 07:51 PM

For most of my walking sticks, I use a spray poly or spray lacquer. However, on my own "working" walking stick, and any I know that are going to see rough use, I use boiled linseed oil. It dries to a fairly hard, satin finish, but if it gets nicked or scratched (which working sticks do) a wipe with another coat of BLO and the stick is as good as new! It fills the scratches and dents, and the more coats you apply the better the repair. Haven't tried any myrtle, but have used the stuff on Ironwood (hornbeam), hickory, maple and oak.

Al

Ashbys · #6 06-29-2005, 10:34 AM

Sound like a real beautiful cane. I would add this about Boiled Linseed oil. It is also a waterproofer. In the 1800's canvas was painted with Lamp soot mixed with linseed oil to make water proof canvas. The ground cloths and tents of the 1860's armys were made this way. I have made ground cloths that are now 8 years old and they are still waterproof.
For something which will be subject to alll kinds of weather, Linseed would be my choice.
Ash

papasar · #7 06-30-2005, 07:20 PM

Just a little info,
The last time I used Trueoil was on a Hawkins gunstock. That was about 25 yrs ago and the stock still looks brand new. I believe the main ingredient in Trueoil was tung oil. It was applied with my finger tips and the heat from the rubbing gave it a very hard and durable finish.
Bill K.

Plain_Ol_Ed · #8 06-30-2005, 07:47 PM

All of the above finishes should work well. Truoil should do a fine job if appliied with fingertips/hands (no rags or rubber gloves). However, I worked part time for a gunsmith and developed a fondness for hand (once again no rags or gloves) rubbed blo. The boss refered to it as the "once finish." Once and day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year forever. These are light coats rubbed in until they appear dry. You should feel a little heat in your hands. The end result is a deep soft finish seen on fine old guns and some newer ones.

cmiles · #9 07-05-2005, 06:56 PM

A quick note to thank everyone for their suggestions and comments, they were all helpful. I'm refinishing the stick with Boiled Lindseed oil as most of you suggested. Four hand (finger) rubbed coats on so far (out of ???, haven't decided yet) giving it a gentle scuffing with fine steel wool between and its looking great! The oil is starting to get a 'deep finish' look and accents the wood's grain wonderfully. I think it is going to end up looking better than when it was new!
Thanks again for everyone's help.