Dead Plum Tree In Garden To Practise Carve?

[GAIA]

I was on the phone earlier this evening speaking to a friend of mine. He used to be an estate manager for an English lord was also estate manager for Liberty of London. I mentioned I'd been asking around to see if anyone had any spare timber they could let me have. My mate also dealt with the forestry on the estates.

He said as I had a dead plum tree in my garden, he has seen it ( I understand fruit trees carve well )
He said I could use that, as its dead, if cut into logs kept in the warm in the house, would dry out in 2/3 weeks. Would it dry out quicker if like cut into sort of like boards 3/4 inch thick?

I've not spoken at length with him regards this. Has anyone any ideas about using this wood? Would it not be better to cut the tree down, I have a 5ft two man cross cut, bucking saw. Should I cut the trunk into sections, then take to a saw mill to cut into board type sizes, like 3/4 inch thick. I can't cut it rough, on my Triton 2000 Workcentre, saw table, it would mess it up and be dangerous.
Pete.

[Claude]

The sawmill option would work, unless you have a friend with a band saw that is large enough for re-saw capability. I'm not sure about the 2-3 weeks for logs...the usual rule of thumb is one year of drying for each 1 inch thickness, so it depends on how long the tree has been dead as to how dry it is.

Fruit woods usually have beautiful grain, but they are also generally quite hard. If you're doing relief using a mallet and gouges, shouldn't be a problem for you.

Another possibility for cutting up the wood: if there is a local woodturner's club anywhere near you, you could trade them a section of the log for sawing up the rest for you. Woodturners like plum!

Claude

[GAIA]

Originally Posted by Claude

The sawmill option would work, unless you have a friend with a band saw that is large enough for re-saw capability. I'm not sure about the 2-3 weeks for logs...the usual rule of thumb is one year of drying for each 1 inch thickness, so it depends on how long the tree has been dead as to how dry it is.

Fruit woods usually have beautiful grain, but they are also generally quite hard. If you're doing relief using a mallet and gouges, shouldn't be a problem for you.

Another possibility for cutting up the wood: if there is a local woodturner's club anywhere near you, you could trade them a section of the log for sawing up the rest for you. Woodturners like plum!

Claude

OK thanks Claude.

[pallin]

Claude is correct in his suggestions. Two or three weeks is not enough time for drying fruit wood to avoid checking. However, some carvers and woodturners like to start with green wood, then allow some drying time before doing the final form. It depends very much on what you are carving. Woodspirits might be okay with twists and cracks.

[GAIA]

Originally Posted by Claude

The sawmill option would work, unless you have a friend with a band saw that is large enough for re-saw capability. I'm not sure about the 2-3 weeks for logs...the usual rule of thumb is one year of drying for each 1 inch thickness, so it depends on how long the tree has been dead as to how dry it is.

Fruit woods usually have beautiful grain, but they are also generally quite hard. If you're doing relief using a mallet and gouges, shouldn't be a problem for you.

Another possibility for cutting up the wood: if there is a local woodturner's club anywhere near you, you could trade them a section of the log for sawing up the rest for you. Woodturners like plum!

Claude

Hi,
I attach some photos of the plum tree it has been dead for 2/3 years. What type, quantity, quality of wood would be reasonable to swap for the tree? The trunk is 30 inch diametre.
Peter.

[Steve Reed]

If you're going to saw it into logs, seal the ends and let it dry through the sides. I agree, 2-3 weeks is nowhere long enough.

[GAIA]

Originally Posted by Steve Reed

If you're going to saw it into logs, seal the ends and let it dry through the sides. I agree, 2-3 weeks is nowhere long enough.

Ok thanks, sealing ends what would you say, paint or wax?
Pete.

[mpounders]

I prefer paint, because it is inexpensive and I have lots of remnants from various remodeling projects. I also use a marker to write the date on the end, so that I know how long it has been drying. I have susccessfully used a product called Pentacryl on green wood and had no cracks or checks.

[GAIA]

Originally Posted by mpounders

I prefer paint, because it is inexpensive and I have lots of remnants from various remodeling projects. I also use a marker to write the date on the end, so that I know how long it has been drying. I have susccessfully used a product called Pentacryl on green wood and had no cracks or checks.

OK, oh, whats a check?

[GAIA]

Originally Posted by pallin

Claude is correct in his suggestions. Two or three weeks is not enough time for drying fruit wood to avoid checking. However, some carvers and woodturners like to start with green wood, then allow some drying time before doing the final form. It depends very much on what you are carving. Woodspirits might be okay with twists and cracks.

Hi again,
The tree has been dead for 2/3 years, no sap in it, asked my estate manager, forestry friend again, said kept in warm for a few weeks should be fine to work with?
Peter.