Cutting a Pattern on a Bandsaw

[jstive]

Hello everyone, I have a question about how to cut a project out on the bandsaw. First let me tell you that I use to have a small 10inch bandsaw to cut out the pattern after it has been transfered on the wood. Well this never worked so good so I went out and bought a 14inch craftman bandsaw (which I really like). Well I thought this would solve all my problems and I would be able to cut out any pattern with ease. Wrong! Now if I understand this right one is suppose to cut out the sideview and then the topview correct? Well when your working on a carving say with these dimensions 11/2thick by 5inches wide by 6inches high. I cut the sideview first and some of the turns are impossible to make with my bandsaw. I am sure it is a 1/4 inch wide blade. Anyway if you cut the pattern out in different sections in order to make an accurate cut I ruin any chance of cutting the topview out cause this causes to many pieces to put back together to cut the topview out. I hope this is making sense to anyone. What I want to know is there any secret way of cutting the pattern out on the bandsaw where one can keep everything relativly together so one can get a good side view cut and top view cut? Do I need to get a smaller bandsaw blade in order to make these turns and angle cuts? If anyone out there can give me some advise or direction on this I would appreciate it. I seem to have this problem alot but not all the time. Thanks for listening. Help! Jim Stiver

[jstive]

I just read another person asking about the same question. It helped me some but I still don't know how you tape all the pieces (sp) back together with tape and get a square block again. Say you are going around a tail on say a cat and you can't make the turn with the bandsaw or you have to go around the front legs and it's a real tight cut? You are going to have to make several cuts to get it done and in the meantime it leaves you with a lot of small pieces. Is this the bandsaw or the operator or both? Is this just something you learn with practice. I know there is a lot of great carvers out there that can help me with this one. Thanks, Jim Stiver

[mark yundt]

Some times a thinner blade might help to make those tight radiuses.Other times you just might cut out the top profile,(for your cat for example)which would leave you a large ,,or larger pieces to tape back on,,then cut out the side profile.Sometimes the opposite is true.Take a moment before you cut to study the piece to visualize the fewest/simplest cuts.And at other times,,I've done a combination of both,,,guess nothing is really set in stone,,your piece can dictate which should be done first,front/side/top..That seems to be the nature of this stuff,,there are general guidelines,,that usually work,,but as you know,,rules are meant to be broken.Which leads me to another possibility,,I've cut up to very delicate areas,,profiled from both directions,,and then break the piece off purposely,,then finish the rest of the cut out,,a snapped rather than cut piece of wood will glue back together seamlessly,,just like breaking a pencil and sticking it back together again,,fits perfectly and the joint is stronger than the rest of the wood. I especially do this ALOT with fret work and pierced carvings.

[squbrigg]

A smaller blade will help, and allow you to cut in tighter corners, but insure the piece is well supported as you cut, and don't twist the blade and break it. A 1/8" blade is the smallest I believe, but I find a 3/16" blade will offer you the best combination of strength and manoeuvrability.

Bob

[mark yundt]

And one more thought to consider.If you have tight radiuses ,or a place where you can get the blade burried in a block with nowhere to go,,first drill a hole straight through at that point.This gives you a place to "park" the blade,,spin the piece around and let it cut out a bigger chunk as an escape route.This eliminates having to try and wiggle the blade back out of it's cut which can be difficult at times.With my fretwork example,,I usually riddle the piece with holes,I can cut in,,turn around,cut from new directions,or come back out,,it might just give you more options.

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

like it was said, there is no certain side that "has" to be cut first, cut the one with the least amount of cuts....or also as said, just cut one side and you can carve the rest..I use the thick double sided carpet tape to put the chunk back on if I do it that way....also sometimes you can "almost" make the cut, in other words leaving a small "spue" you can cut thru with a cut or two with the knife...that way the whole side is still intact...after you cut the other side, come back with the knife like I said and cut the "spues" (a small uncut piece of wood holding the piece to the main body) clear as mud?

[Thomp]

jim,

you may have to pick one view only to cut out if its too intricate,

even though i don't use a bandsaw. i have used one in the past, i know its tough to make some turns or even back out the blade sometimes without living dangerously or breaking a blade,

you may have to cut out a more rough (not so detailed) version and use a coping saw to detail places where you just cant get the bandsaw into.

reassembly of the scraps to a block is just for keeping the cut out cradled in a stable mannor,
but without putting in some scraps like waste between tail and body it can cause the tail to break off,

its kinda like cutting round stock without a "v" block to hold it, without securing the stock the bandsaw will pull it and bind the blade, stalling, kinking or breaking the blade or project

some projects can only be cut out on one view without endangering yourself or tools.?

[Just Carving]

Depending on what kind of pattern you're carving, you may be able to leave small pedestals on the ends (red lines in image below) or in the middle too, if it helps, when cutting the side profile first. Then pencil in your front or back view on the block. Then cut the front/back side. Then go back and remove the pedestals by hand with handsaw, chisel, knife, gouge, etc. when finished. It all depends on what you're doing. There is really no right or wrong way to do a roughout. I don't have a bandsaw so I use a combination of a coping saw, handsaw, gouges, chisels sometimes even a reciprocating saw if the block is big enough until I have the profile roughed out.

Another way is to glue small blocks to top and bottom of the block--flush with the face of the block--to be cut. Leave those blocks intact--no cutting--so you a maintain square flat resting on which to glide the block while cutting out your pattern on the bandsaw. Then knock the blocks off when you want to. You can even wait until you're done carving this way you'll have something by which to clamp the carving in a vise if you want.

Leaving small spues or breaks in your cuts like HiHo said is also a great idea. Whatever gets the job done and is easiest for you is what works.

As far as tight turns when cutting the pattern, skip over them and go back with a coping saw or other tool which will allow you to remove the wood.

[jstive]

Thanks for all the advise. I really appreciate it. Instead of just rushing into the project to get it roughed out I will study it a little more and see which side has the least cuts. Also I will no doubt have to use a coping saw. Which brings me to the fact that I need what they call a fret board (hope this is the right termonology). The way I understand how this works is you put the area you are cutting out over the v of the fret board and saw the piece out vertically. This is of course after you clamp the board to the bench. Have I got this part of it right? I hope so and thanks again, Jim

[Just Carving]

Jim

the fret board is also known as a birdsbeak. Check out the two links and you'll see why.

Cutting good blanks

Spoon Safety?