beginners questions

Dennis Taylor · #1 09-03-2005, 01:12 PM

I have only recently thought about starting a quest into carving, in the form of spoons and maybe small scale...there happens to be a carving show comming up at the end of the month, and figure I can see some quality work, and maybe purchase some items, hence the questions:

1. for a beginner, not sure if he has a talent, is a cheaper set of palm gouges a good route to take, or are there just maybe a few tools, that would do the type of work I want, until I figure if I can do it?

2. I watched a demo on sharpening, and they used a stone(water), think it was like 320grit, then completed the sharpening with nothing more than wet dry sandpaper on a flat metal plate, do I need a stone, or can the wet/dry be used from 320 up to 1200 girt, or is the stone something you got to have...and if so what is a recommended grit?....water or oil?....maybe diamond, which seems much less messy to maintain and use

3. I found a site www.littleshavers.com which seems to sell carving related material, they have a beginners set in there for about 40.00, six tools, a knife and honing/strop...I looked today at Woodcraft and they have a six piece set also, for about 49.00, is either of these usable for learning with.

the carving show is at the end of Sept., and pretty eager just to look and browse, I have put my name on what seems to be a rather long waiting list for carving dvd's from BUTZ from local library, but it sure is a slow process...

As posted in another thread, I picked up the Kutzall sphere burr today and am eager to try on my first spoon, ready to rough out the bowl...going to pick up a leather glove from Lowes before I begin, just in case...

any input into what a beginner needs to begin smaller scaled/spoon carving in the way of hand tools, sharpening, etc., is eagerly ready to be inguested(sp)...Dennis AND THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY INFO

BillinO · #2 09-03-2005, 01:38 PM

Rick from Little Shavers is a regular on this board, he has lots of knowledge. He has answered all my questions about what type of tools I need for a certain type of carving. All of his tools come pre sharpened. Contact him.

Bill in Omaha

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #3 09-03-2005, 02:17 PM

Yes and the beginners kit from Rick is a real bargain, wish it had been around when I started! As for the scary sharp method (sandpaper) I still use it at times and I have 400, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit...probably be good to also have about 220 grit....you can go from rough to almost polish, the leather strop will do the rest

Just Carving · #4 09-03-2005, 08:09 PM

Dennis,

Back in June of this year, I bought the beginner's set from Rick at Little Shavers. The tools are the sharpest they can be. I could have bought any set from anybody, but I had heard that Rick ensures that you receive sharp, quality tools. So, that sold me. If you have any questions, ask Rick. He will help you. I usually e-mailed my questions because I wear hearing aids and don't hear very well on the phone. But I think you can call and he will help you.

The only other suggestion is that you might be more comfortable as a beginner with a glove on both hands. You get one kevlar glove and a thumb guard in Rick's set. I have always worked with gloves in the past. So, when I was using the glove and thumb guard, I found it to be too awkward with just one glove. So, I bought a second glove. For $6.95, you can't beat it.

As far as sharpening, everyone has their own preference. Maybe it's me, maybe it's the stones, but I get a sharper edge when using the sandpaper. I've made my own tools using wet and dry paper from 80 to 2000 grit. And it does a good job for me.

Good luck,
Bob

Ashbys · #5 09-03-2005, 08:52 PM

I agree with Liferescue,

Purchasing a starter set of tools from LittleShavers will save you money, get you started on being able to do some good work and give you time to find what you want to carve without major expense. Buying a set of tools from Xacto- or a hobby store will just cause you money and frustration. They are a waste of time and money.

As for sharpening, a simple set up works very well, you can use sandpaper, or even a diamond set, just remember when using a diamond sharpener to use water, faster and better results and will remove the steel particles, then a roughout piece of leather with the dremel polishing compound will bring your tools to mirror finish with just a little work.

As for woodcraft's starter , I have nothing against their toools but there is very little consistancy in their tools. Not saying they are bad , but V tools can be very tricky when you start, and consistancy in them is extreamly important as you become more adept with your tools , also Rick will sharpen them for you, and they will be ready to use when you get them.

I know that everyone suggest a glove, but I personally would not suggest using a glove if your using power tools. Especially if your not use to working with a cutting bit. If the grinder catches the glove , it will pull your hand into the cutter and unless it stalls , or the power is cut, you can end up with broken fingers , and destroyed tendons, all because of the glove.
Use the glove when your using the knife, not with the grinder.

Ash

Colin_Partridge · #6 09-03-2005, 10:19 PM

I can only echo the words spoken by the others Rick at Little Shavers you cannot go wrong. That starter set is a wonderful deal I dont know how he makes any money on it. Not only is it a good deal but it comes as sharp as any tool anywhere. As for sharpening it takes years of practice just ask me I still dont do a very good job. Thats why when ever my tools get dull I ship them all the way from Ontario Canada to Rick to sharpen for me. Dont waste your time on cheap tools I did when I first started and it was a big mistake they are now in the garbage and I only buy quality tools.
Colin

Mike Schwing · #7 09-04-2005, 05:48 AM

Hi Dennis, I really can't comment on the palm gouges, but have experience with the sandpaper method. It is commonly referred to as "Scary Sharp". I found it useful for plane blades and chisels. Surely better than nothing at all, can be very effective when used correctly. However, I have never used it again, even once, since buying a proper grinder (or two).

I'd echo the other poster's comment about not wearing a glove with rotary tools, for the same reason cited. Most rotary tools are designed to be used with the tool rotating so that if it gets away from you the tool will run away from your free hand. I normally use mine that way, too, but this throws the dust back towards you, so sometimes I reverse direction. Many burrs are made to cut in only one direction, so that is not always possible anyway. You'll probably experience a moment of contact or two as you are learning the ropes, but soon enough it'll stop happening.

Ron Davidson · #8 09-04-2005, 09:45 AM

Woodworkers Supply has a water stone that has the contours of gouges and V-tools and you can turn it over for chisels and such. I have used it some and it works pretty good. Ron

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #9 09-04-2005, 09:51 AM

I don't use power very often, but have heard it is a good idea to wear a leather glove rather than a carving glove when using power, its not as apt to hang up in it and it does save the skin!

wade clark · #10 09-04-2005, 10:34 AM

I've been bit by a kutzall bit without a glove, It took a bite the size of a nickel nearly 1/4" deep. It took months to heal.
I've had the same bit get ahold of a kevlar mesh carving glove on the same hand. It stopped the tool and I lost no blood.
I won't use that tool without a glove. I don't have to think about it with my mind because my hand screams every time I pick up that tool! It was a very nasty bite!
I also use a foot switch, so the tool stops when I remove my foot from the pedal. Unfortunately I don't instinctively remove my foot. Maybe if I held it in my teeth, it'd shut off when I screamed!
Wade