[AlArchie]

I guess what you get for an answer depends a lot on how you pose the question. This is in regards to the question of
WD-40 and 3-In-One oil used on sharpening stones.

Here is my question, emailed to Woodcraft and their answer.

It appears as though the marketers of the stones are more promoting their own brand of oil, than giving sound advice....not bad advice, mind you, just a little 'slanted'.


First, their answer;

'Lots of people, different opinions. Manufacturers of stones we sell recommend only their oil or pure white mineral oil as they say other oils contain additives that turn gummy and load the stones. '

However, there are as many different opinions as there are sharpeners, so whatever works for you is fine.

Now my question; I'll delete the first question sent to them by Bcarvings as a matter of brevity.

>>> 'Allen D. Archie' <aarchie@myvine.com> 10/20/04 12:28PM >>>
Got a question about a reply you sent to a contact on another BBS site.
It is in regards to the proper oil to use on an oil stone, and also a solvent to use for cleaning the stone. Several carvers have suggested using WD-40 to clean the stone after a build up of oil and metal particles clogs the abrasive action.

Following is the content of the correspondence from him and your reply to his inquiry.

'


'Everything we sell is returnable for up to one year, any condition new or used. Take some kerosene or paint thinner and scrub the stone thoroughly to remove the wd-40 and 3 in one oil. Or, dribble some paint thinner or kerosene on a piece of black wet/dry sandpaper, about 280 to 320 grit, and scrub the stone on it until clean.

Do not use WD-40 or3-in-1 oil as they leave additives behind, use sharpening oil or white mineral oil from any drug store. '


My comments to Woodcrafter

Now, although I see nothing wrong with using kerosene to clean the stone, and absolutely nothing wrong with using straight mineral oil as a lubricant for sharpening, or WD-40 as a solvent to clean the stone.

I have been sucessfully using 3-In-One oil, other light machine oils, honing oils, and even transmission fluid in a pinch, for over 50 years, and have found relatively little difference in the performance of either oils or stones when used to sharpen both hunting and carving knives.

I'm particularly concerned with the portion of the your reply to him that mentions leaving additives behind. Are these additives supposed to impair the stones ability to abrade the blade in the sharpening process, or are they warned against because of some health or safety issue. Any idea what these 'additives' might be? If the latter
is the case, aren't virtually all petrochemical compounds bio-hazards to some degree. But on that same note, small amounts of petro based oils on a sharpening stone wouldn't appear to be a threat to either health or the environment. Even kerosene leaves a light film of residual hydrocarbons after it has been used as a cleaner.

Thanks for your thoughts on this.



Allen D. Archie


email aarchie@myvine.com

If this seems a little disjointed, please excuse me as I just ain't quite up on this cut-n-paste stuff yet....but I'm catching on.

[Kenny_S]

Thanks ALA for the topic and answers. I usually take the answers with a grain of salt that these manufacture out out. You know,'Only use our products to clean, wash or perserve'. I understand their respomse and why they give them out. Lot to do with Warenties. However, Like you said, 50 years of experience tells alot of tried and true methods. I guess, where I am coming from and going to is, I am with you sir on using WD40 or 3 in 1 oil in cleaning stones. But now, I can see that I can use wet/dry sandpaper and clean them also. But then, My stones haven't been used for a long time since the diamond sharpeners came out. Now to get the little bride to start sharpening and stropping. But hey, She is interested in some tools and even said the foredom is the next for her. OKCITY carving show, here we come!!!!!!!

[FK]

My personal experience with WD-40 is that it will leave a gummy residue after the solvent evaporates. I have observed this on many firearms. The military does not allow its use on firearms due to the very tough gummy gunk varnish like build up. It is very difficult to remove from metal surfaces when the gunk forms.

WD-40 is a rust preventative and cleaner,,,,,not a lubricant!

The reason for manuf. recommending their brand stone oil is from customer complaints and gummed up stones. The manuf. honing oil is designed for maximum efficiency.....other lubricants will work but not as efficient,,,,,,kerosene (smell is strong) mineral oil (my favorite) glass cleaner (without amonia).

Yes, people use spit, motor oil, and many other liquids on stones,,,,,,even one author recommends oil stones used dry (for sharpening knives in the meat industry) he even published a book on the subject !!

Regards,
Fred Krow

I guess I should step in here since I started this WD-40 controversy.

The original question was how to restore damaged/clogged stones; not how to lubricate them. That is the only reason I suggested WD-40.

I prefer using baby oil on my oil stones; I use no lubricant on my hard Arkansas stones.

After doing a little reading on the subject, I finally found the recommendation from a quarry owner in Arkansas.

His recommendation is kerosene and a stiff brush to unclog a stone. Myself, I have never had much luck with that combination. So I would like to revise my original suggestion to:
Abrade the surface of the stone to eliminate the clogging and in the future use sufficient oil and wipe clean after each use. :P

I have a question concerning oils.

If corn oil is made by squeezing corn;
And peanut oil from squeezing peanuts,
how is baby oil made?

[quote author=FK link=board=Beginner;num=1098382209;start=0#2 date=10/22/04 at 12:15:19]even one author recommends oil stones used dry (for sharpening knives in the meat industry) he even published a book on the subject !![/quote]

Yes he did!! It was after reading John Juranich's 'The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening' that I began using dry stones for all of my knives. I'm not sure if they are actually any sharper than they were when I used oil but honing is faster and less of a mess now.

[mikeg]

Do you need to clean them more often now that you use them dry?

mikeg

[FK]

Clifford,
I called John Juranich after reading his book and ordered the neat steeling arrangement he sells (two hardened rods in a metal frame). It works great with rather light pressure on the rods. You probably have carbide rods (old carbide end mills) available with your work and could make them yourself. I have also experimented with plane blades, the steeling realligns the edges quickly and then I strop with green chrome oxide on thin leather, this skips honing and wear on the blades. The latest fad in plane blades is cryo treated A2 steel,,,,,the edge lasts much longer than high carbon.

I do not use the dry oil stone method,,,,my present interest is with Norton and Shapton water stones,,,,very quick polished edge,,,,but a real pain with the water and slurry mess.

Regards,
Fred Krow

Just goes to show you there's more than one way to sharpen you knife before you skin the cat. I've quit using oil on any of my stones and have swithched to water and/or spit. One reason is I whittle/carve on the go a lot and got tired of having to carry something with me and secondly the mess created by the oil. Picked up a couple water stones in Japan years ago, but they have long since worn out. But the quick wear is what makes them work so well. Prefer the Arkansas stones and am having a new found love of my carborundum bench stones, vice the coars diamond stone, for the rough work,

[quote author=mikeg link=board=Beginner;num=1098382209;start=0#6 date=10/22/04 at 18:04:46]Do you need to clean them more often now that you use them dry? Â*

mikeg[/quote]

Nope. When I used oil I had to find a rag and wipe off the stones, knife, and wash any stray oil off my hands. Now I just wash the stones with dish soap and an old toothbrush when they get REALLY dirty.