What am I doing wrong?

[Spooker]

Hey folks, I could use what ever suggestions you have. I'll give as much info as I can. I can't seem to get my knife even wicked sharp let alone scary sharp. I'll give my info in bullet form for ease of reading and hope someone can be like, "AHA! that's where youre porblem is."

Knife: Murphy bench knife (small detail)

Stone: double sided composite (course and fine, the kind that you get at your standard hardware store)

Oil: Tried both LPS cutting oil and PB Blaster (it's all I've got on my budget)

Strop: sanded 2x shaped into a 'paddle' and a piece of 1/16 - 3/32 leather wich has the texture of a mans wallet.

Compound: flexcut gold.

I don't like to just ask for help without having thought the problem through and I've thought of many things that I may be doing wrong.

My stone has no chips, divets, cracks etc. and is as clean as my eyes can tell.

I am practiced at holding an even bevel as I have been sharpening chisels for years and as a pipefitter you have to hold a constant 37deg angle while prepping pipe ends.

I thought perhaps I'm using the wrong leather: (too smooth, too thin?) It's in good condition but it is at least 25 years old.
when I put the compound on the strop and then strop. the black streaks are uneven and 'patchy'.

I've watched every Youtube/Expert Village etc video out there and still my knife is acting more like a wood butcher than a carver.

I really appreciate any and all advice you folks can offer. Thank you in advance.

Spooker

[xsailer]

"I am practiced at holding an even bevel as I have been sharpening chisels for years and as a pipefitter you have to hold a constant 37deg angle while prepping pipe ends."

Are you holding the knife at the same 37degree angle?

[Spooker]

Hey XS, thanks for responging.

No not holding it at the same angle. I was just merely using that as an example that I'm pretty confidant about maintaining a steady hold on it.

But since this post this morning I've done a bit more research and think I may need a better quality of stone. Not sure if this will help or not but even though my stone has worked for my other purposes it may be too poor quality for this purpose.
Thanks again.
Off to do more studying
Spooker

[Tom-H]

Spooker,

I take it you knife did not come sharp, but with a factory edge.

Tom H

[xsailer]

I figured if you'd been sharpening for a while and you knew better but that was the only thing of all you comments that looked suspect. You may be on to the fix with your idea. If you haven't already, you might look at some of the different stones offered. The link below would be a start.
The WoodCraft Shop - Online Store

[AlArchie]

Spooker, there is no need to spend big bucks on stones. You can pick up a small pocket diamond stone at Wally World, K-mart or most sporting goods outfits. these are the 1x3 stones and they work as well as anything on the market. Look in the sporting good sections. Most of these are EZE-Lap brand.

Or go with the Scary sharp method of using emery cloth instead of stones. Simply place the cloth (sandpaper) on a flat surface and use that same as a stone. Start with a fine grade and then get even finer. You caneven finish up with this method using crocus cloth as a strop.

In desperation, try one of those little pocket sharpeners; the plastic ones with the crossed ceramic rods imbedded in it. These are NOT the best way to learn to sharpen but they will put a fine edge on your Murphy.

You may be holding a consistant bevel but then rolling the edge into a convex shape at the very end of your sharpening stroke, or doing the same thing when stropping. Make sure you hold your bevel angle steady and not raise or lower the blade toward the end of your stroke. Same with stropping....make sure you don't roll the blade up at the end of the stroke, when you flip it over.

Al

[Lynn O. Doughty]

A 37 degree angle is much too high. Drop it to 20. Make sure your stone is anchored solidly to the table. I use a couple of dowel stops inserted into the workbench to snuggly hold the stone. I put my knife flat on the stone and then raise it to the proper angle of 20 degrees. With two fingers of the other hand I press down on the blade and push it forward evenly across the surface. Do this counting the strokes until you see a fine wire edge on the blade. Now flip it over and reversing the hand positions pull the blade toward you an equal number of strokes. Now with the strop you can polish the blade being careful not to roll the blade at the finish of your stropping stroke.

I use a motorized wheel to strop the blade and load it with Zam. Here's a link that might help you.
Google Image Result for http://z.about.com/d/culinaryarts/1/0/o/0/-/-/wh-st.gif

[slouman]

Spooker,

Check to make sure the knife is straight on the cutting edge. I am a new carver using a Murphy knife and was having the same problem. I happened to check the edge and discovered that the blade was not actually touching the stone when I tried to sharpen. It was slightly bowed.

I'm trying to decide what kind of new knife to order but in the meantime I was able to get it sharp by using one of those foam backed sanding pieces. The flexibility of the foam allowed me to put enough pressure to sharpen the entire blade. I used finer and finer pieces of sandpaper on top of the foam piece until I got the result I wanted.

Not sure if this helps or if this is the problem but worked for me.

Robert

[Spooker]

Thank you all for the tips and suggestions. I'm really glad there are so many learned people and those willing to help.

As far as the stone, I think I've written that off. I'm not sure it that's THE answer but a better quality stone can't hurt. I'll be off in just a few minutes to try Wally world for one of those Eze-sharps. It may be that my stone is not in the condition it appears to be. it's been in every paper mill in Maine and my be contaminated even though it doesn't show.

As for the knife I'm pretty sure it was good from the factory. Maybe not razor, but when I first tried it, it cut like butter, now I almost have to take a running start at the wood and mollyhock it. But I will diffinately pay closer attention to my edge position and not roll it at the end.

Also may just try the emery cloth, I've got plenty of that, but not sure what 'crocus' cloth is. But I'll check it out. I was just hoping I could use the leather from my G-pops supply as it's free and I have drawers and drawers full of several diff. types.

Thank you again for all the help. I will figure it out just may take alot of cursing and head banging to get there.
Spooker

P.S. Lynn, I just stumbled onto your website. Amazing. I got lost in your work and almost forgot I was on a mission.

[Nomad]

Personally I would not bother with a secondary bevel on that knife. I would lay the knife flat on the stone and sharpen one side until you get a wire edge on the opposite side. Then I'd turn it over and do the same thing. I like to use sandpaper for sharpening and usually go out to 2000 grit but a really fine stone will do a good job. The extra fine ceramic stones are good. After you have gotten the wire edge on both sides, then smoothed the bevels with finer and finer stones/sandpaper, then strop to remove any lingering wire edge.